Chelsea 2012 – Build Up pt.3

The centre piece has arrived and been placed and looking beautiful, have a look at the pictures and see for yourself! Thank you to Redwood Stone for the centre piece, if you want to see more of their work visit: www.redwoodstone.com

Chinas

Although the name of this group refers to the area of the world in which they were discovered it could be said to be appropriate for they are quite fragile specimens in terms of hardiness at least and many will require protection in colder areas. It is thought that examples of them existed in China as early as the 10th Century, possibly even before. Later on they were used greatly in breeding programmes and are responsible for the long flowering season of many of today’s modern roses.

China roses come in a wide range of colours and many of them are very strongly scented.They can be used in bedding schemes or as specimen plants in the garden and are very good in tubs when they can easily be moved to a sheltered position in the winter.

Pimpinellifolias

Also known as The Burnett Roses or Scotch Briars.

This is a fascinating little group of roses, also referred to as the Scotch Briars or the Burnett Roses. Those most true to type have many small fern like leaves and dainty flowers, often quite early on. Later in the season when the tiny leaves are adorning shades of claret and russet the blooms are followed by masses of plump, almost round marble sized hips of mahogany brown verging on black. They remain healthy throughout the season and all tend to be rather prickly!

Those more hybrid than the Scotch Briars very often do not share the same habits or styles but by and large have inherited health from their Pimpinellifolia ancestry.

Caterpillers

Caterpillars

Caterpillars

These little creatures will crawl up the stems of roses and with abounding enthusiasm, enjoy a meal of rose leaf. Often they will have been present on the plant since the mother moth laid her eggs on the underside of a leaf and as she will not remain around it is likely that the presence of the damaging caterpillars will go unnoticed until suddenly large chunks of leaf disappear. As and when one is seen, it should be removed and destroyed (or taken to the garden of an enemy). When too many are present for this sadly the only alternative is to spray with insecticide. Ensure that both sides of the leaf receive an application.

Black Spot

As the common cold is to humans, this must be the most common rose disease and there are very few cultivars totally resistant to it, although some fair better than others. A few black spots are not that unsightly and the fact that a rose may get black spot should not be a reason for not growing it.

The disease is usually most noticeable from mid-summer onwards although the odd variety may succumb badly before this, especially after a mild winter as Black spot spores can be air borne and are occasionally carried from one plant to another on the blades of secateurs. When they find a suitable leaf to settle on they will not be seen until small round-ish patches of black or dark brown appear, these will soon multiply; the areas not spotted will become yellow and eventually the leaf will fall.

Fallen leaves should be collected and burnt where possible, as the spores will over-winter in shallow soil where they will remain ready to begin their destruction the following year. In the worst scenario the spores will infect branches and unless tackled this is when the whole plant is at risk. Cut away what you can and apply a winter wash with a mild sterilant, there are now several available that will successfully deal with fungal diseases such a black spot. A regular wash with the hose is also recommended as this will wash the spores away from the plant on which it is harbouring. Some say that black spot can be deterred by spraying the plant with a solution of skimmed milk, but I have never tried doing so.

Centifolias

Also known as the Cabbage Roses because of their very double form, some of these roses are extremely old. They are often found depicted in the works of the Dutch Masters which is quite understandable as it was the Dutch Breeders that were largely responsible for many of these fine roses, in fact it is said they produced as many as 200 new strains of Centifolia in and around the 1600’s.

Although the majority of them have extremely beautiful flowers they can be awkward in the garden with somewhat ungainly growth and a proneness to mildew. Having said that there are a few more compact and tidy varieties.

Procumbent Roses

These are not easy to prune because of their very dense growth habit, with masses of twiggy branches, it is difficult to see where to start. Some careful attention may be needed in certain areas especially if there is much die-back but after that I would be inclined to use a pair of shears or a hedge trimmer. The disadvantage of using such devices is that there may be some breakage to the twigs that will inevitably cause some die back. However these roses are usually vigorous enough that they will quickly cover this with fresh growth from below. Very often these roses require little pruning at all unless of course they have strayed too far into areas they should not be inhabiting.

Viruses

Viruses are not contagious between roses in the garden and if present will have been there since the plant was propagated. Most commercial growers produce their plants by budding scions of a variety onto a rootstock, and if the material they took the scion from was infected so will the new plant be. Rose mosaic is the worst of the viruses manifesting itself as wavy yellow lines or white blotches on leaves, and although there are others, they are of less significance. Viruses are not life threatening and at worst will cause somewhat stunted growth and blooms. Some varieties of roses have had a virus of one form or another for many, many years and because of this it is nigh on impossible to find a clean plant. Indeed we may not recognise that a variety has a virus simply because we have always known it to be the same. Scientists have found that they are able to kill off a virus therefore creating clean stock but this can only be done under laboratory conditions not yet available to the nurseryman. As a rose with a virus is not contagious the best way to deal with it is simply to ignore the fact that it has it and enjoy it for what it is, some of our most lovely roses have them.

Planting Roses in Pots

The same theory applies here as for planting your rose in the ground, really as far as depth and soil are concerned. If using a ready made compost it would be wise to choose one that is soil based. Always add drainage to the bottom of the pot, shingle is fine, roses hate to have their feet in water. Leave enough distance from the edge of the pot to the compost to allow for watering without compost spillage, a couple of inches is advisable.

Every year when the rose is dormant, compost should be scraped away to a depth of a few inches and replaced. Then, about every three years or so the dormant rose should be removed and all the compost replaced.